NEIGHBORHOOD NOSH
O'Terrill's
510 Piedmont Ave., Atlanta. 404-815-0079
By BOB TOWNSEND
For accessAtlanta
Published on: 02/09/2005
FOR A RELATIVELY small place, there's a lot going on at O'Terrill's. Besides a full bar with 20 beers on tap and a menu with some smart takes on pub grub, the Midtown joint has weekly trivia, karaoke and open mike nights, as well as free wireless Internet access and PlayStation 2 games.
ON THE AVENUE: Located on a busy stretch of Piedmont Avenue, in a freestanding building that formerly housed the Imperial Pint, the atmosphere and décor at O'Terrill's is eclectic, to say the least. An L-shape bar, where neighborhood regulars gather, and some dark wainscoting suggest a cozy pub. But beer signs of every imaginable size, shape and form — neon, mirrored, wooden, paper and old-timey — tacked up with random abandon, seem more sports bar, as do the big-screen TV and chirping video machines. The confining indoor seating area consists of a giant round table and a few two- and four-tops with fresh white tablecloths. The more spacious outdoor deck overlooks Renaissance Park and is the best place to sit if you hate cigarette smoke.
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This flaky fish is, well, off the hook. And the homemade chips and slaw are a perfect compliment to the combo at O'Terrill's. |
FISH & POTATO CHIPS: The menu is large and surprisingly ambitious, and even includes brunch on Sundays. The usual burgers, sandwiches and salads are bolstered by daily blue plate specials that range from smoked turkey legs and Polynesian pork chops to meatloaf or corned beef and cabbage (all served with a choice of two sides). Snacks and starters include everything from wings and rings to egg rolls and miniature pulled-pork sandwiches. On a recent weeknight visit, we really enjoyed the haddock fish and chips. Proprietor Linda Terrill says they're her biggest seller. And we can see why. The fish tasted very fresh: White and flaky inside with a tempura-style beer batter, the fat planks stayed super crunchy till the last bite. Tangy tartar sauce, coleslaw and a few shots of malt vinegar are fine accompaniments. But it's the mound of thin-and-crispy homemade potato chips, hot from the fryer and nicely browned at the edges, that makes this combo notable. Terrill says she uses fresh potatoes sliced with an old-fashioned machine that was once a fixture in her father's restaurant. |
BEER & ICE CREAM: In addition to the typical American lagers, O'Terrill's has a respectable selection of imports and micro brews, including offerings from Samuel Smith's, Anchor, Sweetwater and Terrapin. But the best and most unusual beer-related item on the menu is Guinness ice cream, served atop a homemade fudge brownie with lots of squiggly flourishes fancying up the plate. The ice cream is made locally by Greenwood Gourmet and has a delightfully smooth feel and a malty, slightly bitter flavor. Try it with both the chocolate and caramel sauces and, of course, a pint of Guinness.
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THE VERDICT:A neighborhood bar with better than average
pub grub and more
HOURS: 11 a.m.-3 a.m. Mondays-Fridays; noon-3 a.m. Saturdays;
noon-midnight Sundays (brunch noon-3 p.m. Sundays)
PRICES: Starters and snacks $1.40-$11; sides, soups and
salads $1.50-$8; burgers, sandwiches and specials $3-$10
CREDIT CARDS: All major cards accepted
RESERVATIONS: Accepted
RECOMMENDED DISHES: Fish and chips, Guinness ice cream
CHILDREN: No
PARKING: On site
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes
SMOKING POLICY: Allowed — everywhere
NOISE LEVEL: Medium
TAKEOUT: Yes